Burma’s Beaches for Christmas
This year (2013) instead of going to France or the Isle of Man for Christmas we returned to Ngapali beach where we met up with my parents. Not only is it a beautiful four kilometer crescent of powdery packed sand, but it is also where my grandfather spent his Christmas seventy-nine years earlier in 1934! Please see my post from last time (one and a half years ago) here to see his sketches and old photographs. Although the beach is now lined with resorts, they all take the form of low rise bungalows and so the beach still ends up looking very pristine even in peak season.
The beach at dawn shortly before one of my runs. To the point in the distance and back was a perfect 5k or 7.5k to the both ends and back.
Some things about Ngapali have probably changed little since my grandfather’s days – from the fishing village at one end to the antiquated ice factory at the other. One of the reasons he chose Nagapali as a holiday destination, even back in the 30s, was the availability of well iced gin and tonics!
Loading up the tractor engine lorry with bags of ice
The village remains starkly poor in contrast to all the tourist accommodation, however, I hope there is some trickle down effect and benefit through the extra employment that the hotels must bring. The main activities in the village included processing fish to be sent on in ice to other parts of Burma as well as drying smaller fish absolutely everywhere. Children of all ages were having a fabulous game of what appeared to be some version of coconut dodgeball – the rules weren’t entirely clear!
The fishing village
old houses
a young kid and his pup
coconut shell dodgeball
Not sure on the rules but the kids seemed to need to add their coconut shells to this stack without being hit…
Huge tuna drying in the sun
ox carts on the beach
Blissful relaxing on boxing day at a restaurant on a little island across from Ngapali beach
Ice cold Myanmar beer – perfect!
The weather was wonderful – not a cloud in the sky for five days and mid 20s in the day followed by cool evenings. The seafood was delicious – coconut prawn curries and grilled squid in particular.
The beautiful beach
A monk, who when I asked if I could take a photo, got posing as if he was on a Vogue shoot!
sunset
Good news! – this cute pariah dog who we met on our last visit (photos here) was still happy, healthy, and very friendly!
After seeing this guy canter along, I later managed to take the pony from the first photo in the series out for half an hour, but I only managed a few canters as he was pretty stubborn!
Super friendly (and strong!) fruit ladies – always around but never harrasive
Her final words as I bought my last coconut of the trip were: ‘I hope you come back!’ I hope so too! Burma is only a two hour flight from Hanoi and then the beach is a one hour flight from Yangon.
Has anyone been to any other beaches in Burma?
Dear Jura and Piers Your pictures as always are amazing Jura. This must have been a pretty nostalgic trip for you and your parents. We have just left Chris and Shaila in Williamstown and are now on our way to NZ. Look forward to the next installment of HiH Love Hazel and Mike X
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 15:58:23 +0000 To: drmcgalvin@hotmail.com
Thank you so much for your message – I’m really glad you are enjoying the blog. Happy New Year and we look forward to seeing you in Hanoi in February (?). Have a good time with family in NZ!
Thanks for your kind words. Look forward to seeing you both in hanoi soon!
Great photos! It is frozen and cold here so I am jealous.
I love the fruit vendor ladies and hopefully some of that money can trickle down to the village. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you – yes the fruit vendors were cool as so often people like that can be irritating but they were so gracious and not in your face that I’m sure their business improved because of it!
That one dodgeball kid looked pretty serious! Burma is still on my list of places-that-are-so-close-but-why-haven’t-I-been-there!
You must go! But avoid peak in dec-jan (there is ver little accommodation and it doubles in price) and the summer monsoons.